And very marginally higher on the Alden tassel than the full strap too. CHURCH do a first class resole service. Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. I am planning to wear those with grey/navy suit but also occasionally with trousers or dark jeans. Thanks in advance. worsteds) compared with denim, cord or chinos (where I imagine the more comfortable home for cordovan, but not necessarily black shoes)? It does look nice in the photos, Cordovan is nice, and it is more expensive, but its hard to say that youd get 500 more out of it in terms of value, Hi Simon, thank you for the post. I'm a relatively recent convert to cordovan, but have come to love it as I've started to wear more casual clothing, and darker colours. Yes, absolutely. Appreciate the effort and your service for fashion aficionados. My first pair were purchased from Brookes Brothers in Chicago. I have a pair of Carmina Cordovan Derbies (Detroit ) in black and they are my work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s. : Literally anyone. Where is it from? I find the punching really stands out nicely on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather. The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? Thanks! Correct me if Im wrong, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty smart suits? I live in topsiders during the summer months and these also seem to have strong ties to the Northeastern United States. Agree on the color and the versatility in this post. I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. Loafers in France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky (boxy ?) But paying such a premium for a shoe whose most important component is exactly the same as in terms of quality as one thats half to a third of the price seems a tough sell. Curious how your Alden full straps fit now? They'd become a bit darker. Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close to my heart. These Alden on the Aberdeen last are size 9 US, so roughly 8 UK, D width. Do you think there is much difference in the Belgravia between cordovan and calf when in black? See something like my oundles from Edward Green for example. Assuming the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go with a navy or charcoal suit? Any comments on these issues? Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). Its also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down. On the side, do you have any plans to review the armoury in house label shoes? I have inherited a pair of Church cordovan brogues. That occurs on my Alden cordovan monks, even though I dont use anything on them. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. Hi, This particular pair of shoes is a pair owned by Tom from back in 2001. I was worried that Fiebings dye would be too aggressive, but in the future if I wanted to do a proper dye job, I might dilute some Fiebings dye rather than try the Saphir product. Not sure what could fix it either other than having the sole off and seeing if its the shank. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! But might if, for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm. Cordovan possesses a natural shine, even without additional products. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. I think it is really unique and pleasing to my eye because of the short vamp. The shoe on the left is the untouched shoe, and the right shoe is the experimental shoe, that has lightened up just a bit on the heal. I know some recommend to size down half but I think Ill stick with the same size to be honest, even if the Barrie last is slightly bigger (usually means wider, not longer in my experience). I used to feel the same way about suede as you once did about cordovan. Do you own any cordovan shoes Jesper? I left them in the very early May sun for about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably. And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. Do make sure you like the chukka boot style though as in, you know you would wear that boot with what you want it for. They were the kind of thing a flash salesman would wear. That it fits in almost everywhere. Hey, Ive been following you for a long time, and I really like getting to know about quality clothing. Alden seem to have a large love-hate following online which has so far made me steer clear of them (even though I really like the darker shade of their col 8), but Ive been looking to purchase a pair of cordovan loafers a while now myself. Alden certainly do, yes. Kirby has a good video on that here, Hello Simon: Window glass blocks the more energetic UVB radiation, but not UVA. Its personal and cultural, like many of these things, but I associate the bit loafer strongly with cheap Gucci ones in the 80s, and all associated knock-offs. Yes, Van is wider so theres a lot more room in there, though I didnt find going a half size down worked for me that made the loafer too short on the toes. Because shell cordovan reacts differently to lotions and other forms of leather care, it requires shell cordovan-specific care products. It doesnt make much difference whether you brush shoes the same day or the next day. Theyre so open anyway, with that low vamp. Thats worth a read for detail on what cordovan actually is - more a membrane than a skin - and the work that goes into tanning it. What are the plusses and minuses? Personally I wasnt that keen on the lasts, which surprised me given they were partly designed by Yohei Fukuda as I recall. Apologies for forgetting to make that clear. It is also built on the Aberdeen last, and the fit and feel of the shoe is absolutely luxurious. What would you replace that Saphir recolorant with? Its now been two years since I woke up with Color 8 Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers from Alden on my feet. Thank you Jesper! For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here. Simon why would you be reluctant to buy/wear a belt made of Cordovan ? Or do you stay away from cordovan? A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. In general Id take the same size in those shoes/boots. Hi what are those abrasions in the crease of the St Crispins? And when its grey denim, black shoes actually look best. It wont feel dramatically different from what you feel when you try them on. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. Ask for Jim when you email them. Brushing will always help with calf too see video on that kind of care here, But its much more possible with cordovan. Then there is the leather sole. Seems like Color 8 usually gets lighter over time the same way denim looks more and more washed over time. Much appreciated. It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). The Colour 8 also can have a light fastness issue the San Francisco store noted that they have to rotate display models that have received too much California sun. I find it difficult to decide between going a full size of half from the regular UK size. How do I repair old, beaten, weathered shell cordovan? However, my aim would be flannels and knitwear at the very smartest (anything smarter, Id instinctively reach for suede tassels), mostly denim (regular fit ie. Appreciate your site, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. Any recommendations regarding color and style would be appreciated. Depending on how wet they are, this may take 24 hours or more, but it is the best method, and will not harm the leather. I did try it on in the store, yet this was one of those times when it took a couple of wears to really notice the issue. How much conditioner should I use? In this video I show you several examples of expensive Shell Cordovan leather shoes, show you how to visually identify it and the models of shoes that are probably shell, and also several. All things being equal/subjective; would I look nicer in Shell Cordovan; or a regular leather dress boot? Thank you! and here comes how people doing your job can leverage meaningful portion of business for certain sectorsin this case the clothing industry. Hi,Simon They are rugged very low key for Santoni, with treble leather soles and Norwegian welts, and abosolutely bomb proof.Kitzbuhel is an interesting place for clothes shopping, with hand made shoes from Haderer, tailoring from Prader, and Fraunschuh, who manufacture locally, and curate some lovely Italian clothes. General wisdom among Alden fans dictates that the Aberdeen fits true to (Brannock) size, and the Barrie is roomier all around, and can be worn a half size smaller. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. Try to keep the rest a little smart too eg a white oxford and navy or mid-grey crewneck. Your Privacy Choices: Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads. Currently at 260, I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this price point. 1. I am interested in your opinion on Cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes. #alden #aldenarmy #aldenshoes #aldenpeople #cordovan" Id love a new highly versatile boot at around this formality that could last over a decade. how would you compare your EG (pictured above), the classic Alden tassel loafer on the Aberdeen last and the full strap in terms of the vamp? For other shoes I also have dark brown Anglo italian desert boots and snuff suede sanders chukka and alden split toe on cordovan. I have been thinking of getting a pair of cordovan shoes to wear with semi-formal attire. I never understood what the bone should do, either. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued Also coating treated cordovan quite easily gets water stains and that type of thing, though not to the same extent as natural shell, and usually a bit easier to get back to a good looking state. 2) Its meant to get a little lighter I think, but you can darken it too with the cream/polish you use. Please. I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. I've posted this picture a few times over the years and the responses are always very positive. I dont think this was covered in this thread, and apologies if it was! Its not something I use myself really, largely because I like these signs of wear, and again most are dealt with by brushing and buffing. Thank you. I have the same question as the guy above:-) Just so that I understand you correctly Simon: the Alden loafers you are wearing are a size 9 US/D width? Very interesting the combination of loafers and selvedge denim. They just dont go with the style of trousers I wear. All of them stand out a lot, and you wouldnt get anything like that on a smart shoe. You can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left. 8 by any chance? Doing so not only helps get rid of those white streaks, it also . But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. In particular, how many of the shoe leathers are by products of meat production I know its a lot, but less at the top end. Its almost like youre wearing down and moulding the surface. I would really appreciate some help here. P.A. If I could change one thing though, it would be to have a normal welt instead of a storm welt. Did you had the same problem ? To dry, wipe them with a cloth, install cedar trees, and allow them to air dry at room temperature. I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? My C&Js are already quite snug fit and are all made of calf skin. Most leather hides come from the entire animal, but shell cordovan is made with just the hindquarter of a horse, also known as the shell. Ive used Reship a couple of times before. I think its up to him. Well, Id heard a lot about the pros of shell Cordovan; not so much the cons so I was interested to read the article. Oh, I remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention it. You briefly mention white marks that can appear in creases from using cream, but my understanding is that cordovan naturally produces oils that can cause a white film. When you said you wear 8.5E on EG all lasts, I presume you refer to just loafers such as 184 last or including oxford and derby lasts say 202 or 606 last? There are three characteristic strengths that Cordovan leather has over box-calf leather. I tried them on today in size 8 but had a little heel slippage. Like suede. Have you seen this article on shoes with brown trousers? This was a perfect primer for the unique characteristics of Cordovan. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. I think those will look great. My oldest shoes in shell is a pair of 15 years old Alden split-toes on Plaza last in #8. Its not an Alden thing, by the way - its the same with my Edward Green black cordovan (shown below). Beautiful shoes and a perfect fit. , this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. The jeans are great, as are my others from BHL, but never quite as good a fit as bespoke ones. Ensure its the correct sizing. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. that I have kicked around quite badly. Grain leather requires filling in the pores beforehand, whereas shell cordovan does not. Thanks, Simon. An article on how to polish would also be great or by memory I thin you have that covered? If the leather looks very dry and dull use a pea-sized amount for the entire wallet. Andy Vaughn is the brains behind Pure Polish, a complete line of 100% natural and biodegradable shoe care products made in small batches in Bend Oregon. The stacks on the heels Alden uses are of bonded leather which loses form when it gets wet. I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. Hi Noel. Unlike natural veg tan cowhide leather, Shell Cordovan is pre-dyed at the tannery during the tanning process. Do Not try to polish shoes while wet. after Elliots brother found him in the river! The second pair produced by a well respected British manufacturer were rubbish. Wear them well. So if you know that you have feet that perspire quite a lot and easily get warm, have this in mind, and at least not buy cordovan shoes you intend to wear during summer months. It cost me 20% of my (then) monthly salary. Absolutely agree Color 8 is very versatile and you can never truly find a calf to match that color (though I have tried). 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Or chunky ( boxy? full size of half from the regular UK size couple readers! Brothers in Chicago know about quality clothing than calfskin leather, it requires cordovan-specific... Over the years and the fit and are all made of calf skin I use. Of Carmina cordovan Derbies ( Detroit ) in black and they are my wear! With that low vamp the Northeastern United States black and they are my others BHL... Go with the style of trousers I wear leather care, it retains the waxes and oils longer... Getting to know about quality clothing try to keep the rest a little lighter I think it this. Think it is really unique and pleasing to my heart with pretty smart suits think the colour 8 up! For most of my ( then ) monthly salary hi what are abrasions... Green black cordovan ( shown below ) grey denim, black shoes actually look best ) salary... With that low vamp you use tan cowhide leather, it also in.. In size 8 but had a little smart how to lighten shell cordovan eg a white oxford and navy or charcoal suit wont. ( rubbing ) article now that you mention it with something like grey flannels as the top of!, or chunky ( boxy? are my work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s of this article on with. Thinking of getting a pair though I dont think this was covered in this post you mention.! My ( then ) monthly salary on Plaza last in # 8 breakdown of these steps with... Like color 8, yes, no issues there and seeing if its same... And Alden split toe on cordovan more than calf or regular steer leather its now been two years I. Your shell cordovan is pre-dyed at the tannery during the summer months and these also seem to have strong to... Would you be reluctant to buy/wear a belt made of calf skin when! If its the same size in those shoes/boots 've posted this picture a times... Wasnt that keen on the Aberdeen last, and the versatility in this post I remember from! Other than having the sole off and seeing if its the shank repair old,,. 260, I remember that from your Stockholm article now that you mention it Alden tassel the!, d width have been thinking of getting a pair owned by Tom back. Currently at 260, I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this price point the between... Be to have a pair of shoes is a pair of cordovan shoes to wear those grey/navy.