Thanks for your time, JK. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? The twist of thread is 40 - that is for mass-market shirts; the fabric with a double twist (two ply) from 80 to 160, is used for high-quality high-quality shirts. Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. Yes, it was at their basic cost. Jennie Adamson et al. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? Like this article? Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? This is a proper Savile Row suit. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? It also depends how close the styles are. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Impressive finish, congratulations! Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Their business has actually been going for a few years enough to train up that whole Indian workshop without much exposure at all. Follow. Subscribe now and save. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. If to compare, which make is most value for money? Your website is an amazing read. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Explore. Thanks for your reply. This shouldnt really be surprising. Thanks Simon. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. This is a price bracket that most of your readers could stretch to and so we need more of this from yourself . Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. There are a few things you can look for to tell if a suit is bespoke:Firstly, bespoke suits will always be made from premium materials. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. Thanks for your blog Simon! Just been to W&S to collect my suit and have to say Sian has done a wonderful job. Thank you. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. So be prepared that its a risk. Youd wear any existing suits, then gradually swap in the better ones as you buy them. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? One thing I worry about is whether their business model and pricing is viable in the long term. And great work on the site, a unique and reliable resource! As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Hi Simon. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? Hi Salvatore, Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). Hey Justin. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. (Living in Paris and only going from time to time to London, difficult to sync with the neapolitan tailors). Hi, This is slightly out of my budget. It is another interesting approach. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. The word yachting as well as the concept itself came into our vocabulary quite recently. Hi Jon, Also, is their normally a third fitting?. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. thanks! Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Would W&S be a good option. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. It is as good in cut as most other Savile Row suits, and almost as good in make. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? Great article . Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. Much more Italian style, soft and more curved. Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. Yes, I would recommend them for a first suit. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. i.e. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Richard. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? Thanks! new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Their sessions do include fittings. Can anything be done to rectify the situation. I had a strict deadline though. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. Keep up the good work! The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. Hi Simon. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. The prices are comparable. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. I dont know how those prices have changed, no sorry. As bespoke is new to me, for both pieces i did my best to educate myself beforehand, but naturally must rely on the experience of the service provider. Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. How about the Huntsman 100 product? What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. In your opinion is this offering from W&S worth the extra cost over a GB suit ? How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? Is there an equivalent for this type of value with other articles (i.e. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. This is very close to my ideal suit, though I wouldnt get the lap seam on the back, and Id get flapped hacking pockets. 4,523 followers. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. To be honest I am leaning more towards WS now but cannot make up my mind! If you want to be safe, try on something they already have and give your opinion on it. Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. P.S. I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. 2. Tim Everest offered a 10/11oz super 120 fabric for 1450+VAT with full canvas and extra trousers done in six weeks at a factory in Czech. Interesting point. However, am i expecting too much? Very good sales and marketing. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. Though no, its a noticeable but not huge difference to go for 11oz rather than 13oz, I have suits in both. I have 2 W+S suits now and have been happy with both (both business suits). Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Very best. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Hi Sam Any other recommendations? If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). Thanks. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! 1. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? Thank you very much for all your great advice! So, the duo determined that theyd fulfill the role of giving clients good, honest guidance, before recruiting a team of Savile Row trained cutters and tailors, including John McCabe and Bob Bigg, highly experienced stalwarts of the Row with close to 120 years combined experience. We wanted to do things the right way, Suresh continues. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. I understand there a differences in style obviously. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. Looking forward to know your thoughts. The quality of his work surpasses anything I have had from the Row, or any of the big name French or Italian tailors often named here. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. They look very good and suit your face and style, Francois Pinton, though I wouldnt necessarily recommend them based in make. Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? Outstanding blog, Simon. How does their house style translate to a relatively casual sports coat (like a tweed jacket with some casual detailing that could be worn down with denim, or up for the office with flannel)? And would the W&S offshore bespoke offering be vastly different in quality from a from a fully bespoke suit from someone like KH&L? But yes, I know the trend you mean. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. So should be here for the long term. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. If the later, have you seen any examples? This looks perfect! She is very kind and nice Very happy with her. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? Im sure you have more ideas for content than you can possibly cover, so just a couple of suggestions! Hi Simon Fit not good. Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. Creating a Costume From and To Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image! I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Thanks for all the informative articles. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. Just one point on pricing. Couldnt have been more pleased with it! Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. Today. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. Henry Poole etc.) The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. Very happy with the Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the you... 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